Northbound vs Southbound Norway Coastal Express: Compared

Choosing between the northbound vs southbound Norway Coastal Express feels like a make or break decision – like one direction is right and the other means you’ll miss out.

Plus, there’s definitely the (honestly misconceived!) impression out there that the northbound voyage is automatically the better route.

But honestly? It’s not that clear-cut.

I’ve done both directions of the Norway Coastal Express solo, and they are genuinely incredible – just in completely different ways!

Your experience on both sections of the voyage changes a lot depending on the season, daylight, port timings, and even what you want out of your trip to Norway.

And that is what rarely gets explained properly when you’re making such a big decision.

So, in this guide, I’ll share how the northbound and southbound routes compare – from port stops and excursions to onboard vibe and cost – so you can choose the one that fits you!

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Northbound vs Southbound: Quick Answer

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If you’re feeling stuck choosing between the northbound vs southbound Norway Coastal Express, here’s a quick overview:

Choose northbound if:

You want longer daytime stops in iconic cities like Trondheim, Ålesund and Tromsø
You’d enjoy a more social, lively atmosphere onboard the ship

Northbound feels exciting and very much like “the classic version” of the voyage!

Choose southbound if:

Dramatic scenery matters more to you than ticking off famous cities
You’d enjoy spending time on deck or in the lounge, watching the scenery drift by
You like a calmer, quieter experience

Southbound is a lot quieter, more affordable and wildly underrated!

Katie’s Top Tip: Neither direction is better overall, they’re just better for different people, seasons and travel styles – so let’s get into that now!

Crossing the Arctic Circle on the Coastal Express!

What Is the Norway Coastal Express?

Before we go any further, it’s important to know what the Norway Coastal Express is.

The Norway Coastal Express is a working coastal route that’s been running for over 130 years, connecting small towns and cities along Norway’s rugged and remote coastline.

Yes, it is now popular to book it for travel, but it’s not your typical tourist cruise.

Locals use it for vital transport (especially in the Arctic), cargo and mail are loaded and unloaded at every stop, and the ports are dictated by real schedules and the real needs of locals – not tourists.

Both Hurtigruten Coastal Express and Havila Coastal Express operate the same route, stopping at the same ports in the same order, and offering the same excursions.

And this is why the northbound vs southbound Norway Coastal Express debate matters.

You’re not just choosing different destinations, but deciding how, when and for how long you will enjoy different parts of Norway’s spectacular coastline.

My Havila ship, Havila Polaris, coming into port in Bergen!

Northbound vs Southbound: Route & Ports

Port timings are the single biggest difference between northbound and southbound.

The full Coastal Express route runs constantly between Bergen and Kirkenes, stopping at 34 ports along the way.

Whether you sail northbound or southbound, your ship is covering the same coastline and ports, just at different times of day.

This matters a lot because, clearly, a port visited for a few hours at 2pm is experienced completely differently to the same town called upon for a brief, 10-minute stop at 2am.

Your direction doesn’t change the route, but it absolutely changes what you see and experience.

And this is also why advice online often feels contradictory.

People say “northbound is best” with such conviction because it works better for their priorities, but your priorities for your unique trip might be totally different.

Once you understand how the route works, the decision becomes a very personal choice.

The beautiful port of Tromsø is a popular northbound stop!

Northbound Route: Bergen → Kirkenes

The northbound Coastal Express runs from Bergen to Kirkenes and takes 7 days.

It is the most popular direction, especially for first-time travellers.

Northbound gives you the most daytime port calls at the most popular towns and cities along the route, including Ålesund, Trondheim, Tromsø and Kirkenes.

Some of these stops are a couple of hours long, while others, like Ålesund, can be up to 10 hours, giving you real time to explore independently or join excursions.

Some of the best ports to get off and explore on the northbound route are:

Trondheim (3 hours)
Bodø (2 hours)
Tromsø (4 hours)
Honningsvåg for North Cape (3.5 hours)
Kirkenes (3 hours)

You also cross the Arctic Circle northbound on day 4 of the voyage, passing by the famous globe marker on Vikingen Island, which is an amazing moment!

And there is a ceremony later in the day to mark the occasion.

Colourful Trondheim is another northbound must-see!

Southbound Route: Kirkenes → Bergen

The southbound Coastal Express runs from Kirkenes back to Bergen and takes 6 days.

And it is also highly underrated.

But the port timings for actually getting off and exploring aren’t as ideal, as there are more early-morning or late-night port calls on this route.

Some of the most popular stops, like Tromsø and Ålesund, are visited at night or very early in the morning southbound, so you won’t be able to get off the ship and explore.

Instead, there is more time at sea and also shorter stops at underrated Norwegian towns:

Hammerfest (1 hour 45 minutes)
Tromsø (1 hour 45 minutes, but at 11:45pm)
Svolvaer (2 hours, but at 6:30pm)
Stokmarknes (1 hour)
Brønnøysund (2.5 hours)
Trondheim (3 hours, but at 6:30am)
Kristiansund (1 hour)

You also still see the Vikingen Globe to mark the Arctic Circle, on day 10, but there is no ceremony southbound.

The southbound Coastal Express is great if you want to explore Norway’s hidden gems.

I visited the beautiful town of Brønnøysund and fell in love with its beautiful harbour and calm pace, despite arriving with zero expectations!

Beautiful, totally underrated Brønnøysund!

But you don’t get to see the most iconic cities, and that’s a definite trade-off.

However, it’s not all compromise on the southbound route, because what you do get is amazing daytime sailing through some of the most beautiful stretches of Norway’s coastline.

In my opinion, days 9 and 10 have the best scenery of the entire voyage, with the breathtaking Risøy Channel, Raftsund Strait, Seven Sisters Mountain Range and Mount Torghatten all being highlights of my trip.

Especially if you’re into photography, you’ll absolutely love the southbound voyage!

I personally spent more time out on deck southbound than any other part of the journey. And even though I wasn’t stepping off the ship and exploring as many ports, I found I didn’t miss that as much as I expected, and the landscapes more than made up for it!

The Decision:

If you want plenty of time to get off and explore some of Norway’s most iconic cities, northbound is the best route for you.

But if you’re happy visiting more underrated ports and enjoying the spectacular views from the ship, you might just fall in love with the southbound scenery!

Mount Torghatten, the mountain with the hole!

Northbound vs Southbound: Excursions

Excursions are another area where the northbound vs southbound Norway Coastal Express choice really matters, because not all excursions are available in both directions.

Northbound Excursions

Northbound offers far more excursion options, simply because of the port timings we just covered in the last part of this guide.

This is where you’ll find most of the bucket list experiences of the route, including:

Boat trips to Geirangerfjord
Walking tours and city sightseeing in Trondheim
Husky sledding or reindeer sledding in Tromsø
Visiting the famous North Cape Plateau
Seeing the mighty Saltstraumen Tidal Current

So if taking part in Arctic excursions are a big part of why you’re booking the Norway Coastal Express, northbound gives you more choice and flexibility.

Southbound Excursions

There are fewer excursions on offer southbound.

Some ports don’t offer excursions at all due to timing, while others focus on more unique experiences instead of major bucket list attractions.

Some of the southbound excursions on offer include:

City sightseeing in Hammerfest
Visiting the Hurtigruten Musuem in Stokmarknes
Hiking Mount Torghatten from Brønnøysund
Midnight Concert in Tromsø Cathedral
Visiting the Bergtatt Marble Mine

Southbound is much more about the experience onboard and the scenery as you sail the coastline, rather than ticking off activities in port.

Having done both, I most enjoyed the northbound excursions (like husky sledding, visiting North Cape and seeing the Saltstraumen Tidal Current).

But again, southbound was just very different, and I didn’t really miss them. My “excursion” for the day became standing on deck, watching and photographing Norway’s scenery!

The Decision:

If enjoying a wide variety of excursions is non-negotiable for your dream trip to Norway, choose the northbound route.

If you’re happy swapping activities for uninterrupted scenery, slower days at sea or exploring smaller ports, southbound is perfect in a completely different way.

City sightseeing in Hammerfest, southbound

Northbound vs Southbound: Onboard Atmosphere

I was actually surprised by how much the onboard atmosphere shifts for northbound vs southbound, so let’s break it down:

Northbound is busier and more social because it’s the most popular direction. This means the communal spaces are livelier and busier, and it’s easier to chat to other passengers if you wish. There’s also a shared excitement on board, especially in the first few days!

Southbound is a LOT quieter and calmer. Fewer passengers stay on board after Kirkenes, which means there’s more space, less noise and a slower pace onboard.

I loved both for different reasons.

Northbound made me feel connected and part of something exciting, as we all set off from Bergen for the first time. But the southbound route gave me the space and quiet to really absorb the journey and beauty of the route!

The Decision: If you want connection and a social atmosphere, northbound will suit you best. If you value quieter, calmer travel, southbound is perfect for you.

Enjoying a peaceful walk out on deck, with no one else around on the southbound voyage!

Northbound vs Southbound: Cost

You might not think it, but cost is actually one of the biggest decisions when deciding between the northbound vs southbound Norway Coastal Express.

Southbound is typically cheaper than northbound, because:

Southbound is the less popular direction
The route has a slightly shorter overall sailing time
There are fewer long, daytime port stops at iconic cities
Kirkenes is less convenient to fly into

Plus, fewer major daytime port stops also means you don’t book as many excursions, which can reduce your overall spend.

Northbound is usually a bit more expensive, because:

Northbound is the direction most people choose
The route has a slightly longer overall sailing time
It visits the iconic cities and larger ports during the day, for hours at a time
Bergen has an international airport or is easy to get to from Oslo

Plus, there are more bucket-list excursions available on the northbound route, which adds value to your trip but also adds cost if you choose to join them.

The Seven Sisters Mountain Range, southbound

Northbound vs Southbound: Daylight and Scenery

As I’ve said, northbound has the most daytime ports, while southbound gives you the best scenery, sailing through fjords, open coastline and past rugged mountains.

This is why the season you’re sailing in matters when deciding your direction.

Winter

In winter, daylight hours are limited, so I would recommend the northbound route.

This is because the things to do and excursions at ports like Tromsø and Honningsvåg are designed around Arctic conditions and can still be enjoyed during polar night.

Whereas the southbound route has more scenery and less chance to get off and explore ports/do excursions, and you really need daylight to be able to enjoy that scenery.

However, I will say that this most applies to polar night above the Arctic Circle (roughly late November to late January), as this is when the sun doesn’t rise at all.

I personally did the voyage in early March (so still technically winter), and loved both the southbound and northbound route because there was enough daylight to enjoy it.

Katie’s Top Tip: If you’re unsure, check the sunrise and sunset times against the voyage itinerary to really see what you will and won’t see in daylight northbound vs southbound.

Spring & Autumn

In the shoulder months like September or April, both routes can be equally incredible.

Daylight isn’t really a deciding factor here, so you should base your decision on the port stops, excursions, price and onboard atmosphere that we’ve already discussed.

Summer

In summer, again daylight isn’t really a factor, as all of Norway enjoys long days (or even the Midnight Sun, bringing 24-hour daylight above the Arctic Circle!)

Because of this, you should again base your decision on the port stops, excursions, price and onboard atmosphere that we’ve already discussed.

However, summer is when the Norway Coastal Express is busiest, so if you want a quieter (and more affordable) experience, I would recommend southbound.

The Decision: Choose your direction based on what you want to see most (towns and excursions vs landscapes and time at sea), and then match it to the best season for that.

My Recommendation: Do the Round Trip

If time and budget allow, the round-trip Norway Coastal Express is without doubt the best option for a truly once-in-a-lifetime trip.

This is what I personally did and I absolutely have no regrets – the full voyage is still my favourite ever solo trip I’ve ever taken (even after 24 countries!)

With the round-trip, you don’t have to stress about choosing between northbound or southbound, and you get to enjoy all of the port stops, excursions and scenery that this incredible voyage has to offer.

Plus, doing the round-trip means you experience the lively, social energy of the northbound route and then relax and unwind southbound, with a slower, quieter experience!

It deepens the experience in a way that’s hard to explain until you’ve actually done it.

The most beautiful Arctic sunset on the northbound voyage!

Also, if you’re travelling during Northern Lights season, there is a Northern Lights Promise that both Havila and Hurtigruten offer on their round-trip voyages only.

This means that if the lights don’t appear, you’re offered a free future northbound or southbound Coastal Express trip to try again!

The Northern Lights form a love heart with the full moon over our ship!

Sure, the round-trip is and more money. But if this is a dream trip, it removes so much pressure and all those what-ifs about choosing the wrong route!

So… Which Is Best?

I know this is an annoying answer, but honestly, neither direction is 100% better.

And that also means that there is no wrong choice in this, only the choice that best fits you, your travel style, and the version of Norway you want to experience.

I hope that by reading this guide, you have been able to decide for yourself which route is best for you. BUT, if you’re still confused, here is a quick decision guide to help:

Choose northbound if you want:

Daytime stops at iconic cities
More opportunities for bucket-list excursions
A social, lively onboard atmosphere
An easier first-time experience (flying into Bergen)

Choose southbound if you want:

The most dramatic scenery from the ship
A quieter, calmer onboard vibe
Fewer crowds
To explore some of Norway’s more underrated ports

But whatever route you pick – and whether you sail northbound, southbound or join the full round-trip – I truly hope you have the best time in Norway!

FAQs: Northbound vs Southbound Norway Coastal Express

Is northbound or southbound better for seeing the Northern Lights?

Both directions offer amazing Northern Lights potential during the peak season (October to March), but the round trip is the best choice if the lights are high on your bucket list.

This is because a Northern Lights Promise applies to round-trip sailings, so if there’s no sighting, you’re offered a free future Coastal Express voyage to try again!

But in terms of direction alone, neither northbound nor southbound has an advantage, as seeing the Northern Lights depends on darkness, clear skies and strong solar activity.

Which direction has better fjord scenery?

Both, but in different ways!

Northbound includes iconic fjords like Geirangerfjord (either as a direct sailing in summer or as an optional excursion), as well as the underrated Kjøllefjord.

Southbound has a stop at the again underrated Øksfjord, and also visits the famous Trollfjord in summer, where your large ship navigates through the impossibly small channel! Just know that in winter, you only sail to the mouth of Trollfjord.

Is one direction less crowded?

Yes, the southbound route is noticeably less crowded. Northbound is the more popular direction, which means it is busier and has a more social onboard atmosphere. Whereas southbound is less popular, so there is more space to spread out and relax, and a calmer atmosphere.

Is the southbound route boring compared to the northbound route?

Absolutely not, it’s just different! Southbound has fewer of the iconic daytime ports and excursions, which sometimes gets misinterpreted as boring. But in reality, this was my favourite part of the entire voyage for spectacular scenery and coastal sailing – and there was always something new to see or photograph out on deck!

Which direction is better for first-time solo travellers?

Honestly? The round-trip! It removes the fear of choosing the wrong route and gives you the full experience (with all of the excursions, port stops AND scenery), without compromise.

But if a round trip isn’t possible for you, I’d recommend the northbound route for first-timers, because it visits the most iconic ports (like Tromso, Trondheim and Ålesund) during the day, and you’ll also have your pick of bucket-list excursions to choose from!